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MONDAY JUNE 30, 2008
No Butter
It's not that we haven't noticed that there's some trade fair of sorts taking place from Wednesday. But this is about just bread. No butter. Which can be a pretty dry affair here in Barcelona.

Yes, for all of our superstar chefs, finding a decent loaf of bread can be as challenging as getting a taxi will be later this week. Buy a baguette at noon and by dinner time you've got something so hard that it could double up as a murder weapon; it's almost as if they've gone light on the water in their add-water mixes.

Anna Bellsolà's Baluard in Barceloneta has really raised the bar in that neck of the wood, and Raval's ecological BarcelonaReykjavik bakery was a nice addition - now in Gracia, too - but overpriced, even if the bags are organic and degradable, with kilo-prices rivaling that of half-decent cheeses.

And now in Eixample, we have Xavier Barriga's Turris on Aribau, and soon we can get crusty in Crusto on Valencia, too, where the former head baker of Baluard is setting up shop. With this much choice, pan amb tomàquet almost becomes an option, not a necessity.

Baluard, Baluart 38, Barceloneta - 93 221 1208
BarcelonaReykjavik, Doctor Dou 12, Raval - 93 302 0921
Turris, Aribau 158, Eix Esq - 93 217 9606
Crusto, Valencia 246, Eix Esq - opens mid-July

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