One wonders whether it's a conspiracy by evil rail bosses, deadest on forcing us to quaff their sodium-drenched buffet fare, that mainline stations tend to be such gastronomic deserts.

You meet visitors off the train. They say: "I'm tired from travelling, let's get something to eat". You say: "Cool, we're in Victoria, let me see... Oh well, it'll have to be Pizza Express. Sorry".

King's Cross: "Hmm, let's think about this... Sloppy Guiseppe or American Hot?"

Waterloo: "Hope & Anchor, yay! Bit of a schlep though... Mine's a Salad Niçoise".

Padders...: "Oh, you threw up last time you had Middle Eastern? Well, there are a host of over-priced cafes over the road. You don't eat sushi? Oh well, Siciliana sans anchovies it is".

Today sees the opening of Yakitoria, a short cab ride with cases away in the Paddington Basin. Overlooking the water, it's a Japanese dining emporium set across two floors. The ground comprises an à la carte dining area, sushi bar with Kushi Yaki Grill and cocktail section, while downstairs holds a dining room and bar, complete with open-plan teppanyaki grill. Mmm.

Wow, what a choice. Oh god, I can't decide. Maybe I'll have to stick with...

Don't settle for pizza. Get down to Yakitoria.