I've always thought there's something very devil-may-care about bar-dining, but us Londoners tend to be slightly uneasy about the whole thing.

Having someone suggest we eat at the bar is like being offered sloppy seconds, like being told we don't look grown-up or important enough to sit at a proper table.

Gradually, however, with the arrival of a few classy little gems, we seem to be getting it through our heads that it is in fact rather chic.

What could be more stylishly spontaneous than grabbing a plate of crab ravioli and a glass of Gavi di Gavi at Cecconi's, tucking into a dozen natives and a cheeky carafe of Chablis at Scotts, or, the ultimate in indulgence, lamb cutlets and truffled mash at L'Atelier? And, while a little pricey for tapas, Barrafina has of course made a great success of first-come, first-served, bar-only dining.

Furthermore, on Friday, when modern Malaysian diner Suka replaces Spoon+ at the Sanderson hotel, the Long Bar will suddenly become so much more appealing, serving such delicacies as baby squid skewers, pork belly and oyster claypot or just a little assortment of samosas to nibble on, whatever the hour.

Ok, it may not be the right setting for, say, a third date or an emotional heart to heart, but for an impulsive lunch or a late supper, nothing beats pulling up a bar stool.