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Credit: Catwalking.com

From the first streamlined black dress with its portrait collar and skinny belt to the final petal scattered strapless white cocktail dress this show was superbly judged, wonderfully professional and a faultless demonstration of a designer with editorial genius.

The collection contained several hints of moods without ever overplaying them or straying into overstatement. The new interest in the '80's styles of Japanese designers such as Yohji Yamamoto and the slight 40's influences being shown as directions were there, but so beautifully discrete that they were whispered rather than stated. There were even some infinitely subtle Tudor touches of high necks and curving peplums, but again never to the detriment of the clothing.

The chic streamlined coats and jackets, often with an almost Givenchy like curve, swing and balance to them, were offset against flat pleats and draped back details. The severity of inky black and porcelain white was balanced by pollen yellow, sharp leaf green and a wonderful redcurrant red.

Stand outs included the perfect single breasted boy coat, a blonde boat necked sweater and silk skirt, a chalk white fit and flare coat and a bud green cocktail dress. There list could go on and on for the show in fact was so well judged and balanced that each outfit worked in perfect harmony.

The balance of feather wigs recalling the hairstyle of Zizi Jeanmaire, the opaque tights, often in complementary colours, and the dear little pumps, heightened the balance of the collection and were perfectly judged.

Sophisticated and chic without being old fashioned or heavy; the lightness of touch and confident construction of the show in every element, was a master class from a designer who certainly deserved the applause from a packed audience of press and customers.

Report by Tony Glenville

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