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Credit: Catwalking.com

Charm is currently a much undervalued asset, as well as notoriously difficult to define. At 8.30 on Tuesday the 12th of February 2008 Justin Smith demonstrated charm.

With male dancers attired as a melange of dance hall gigolos, they were dancing with softly stuffed life size mannequins of 20's and 30's ladies. As they performed a hesitant tango down the grand staircase of the Royal Academy for On/Off the audience gave a sigh of pleasure and amusement. With a hint of Roland Petits choreography for "Coppelia" and a discrete reference to "Victor Victoria" - which itself referenced the 20's and 30's the spectacle had a charmingly louche quality. As a dancers eyes glittered under a white satin top hat and feet nimbly negotiated the steps we savoured the specialness of this fleeting fashion moment.
And what of the hats themselves?

What else can one do but wonder and appalaud at a classic beret seemingly fashioned entirely from thousands of layers of ivory tulle? Or at a half hat beaded to resemble a 1920's marcel wave hairstyle - which offered all the allure of a great silent film star . A tiny pill box mimicked Halston for Jackie Kennedy; perched with nonchalance on the head of the silent partner as she was twirled towards the audience. A hat with feathered quills sprouting from it had just a wisp of a veil to catch the heavily maquillied eyes of the dancers femme fatale.

These millinery confections certainly deserved both applause, and closer examination to study the art of Mr Smith Esq - a milliner following a great British tradition.

Report by Tony Glenville

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