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Delphine Wilson
Richard Sorger
Rizvi & Aman
Vidler & Nixon
Yuchi.
Credit: Catwalking.com

What a great idea, for the second season running, for the ON/OFF team to showcase six designers who would not otherwise receive catwalk exposure. A packed audience certainly got their moneys worth with variety, balance, and two wonderful couples from Strictly Come Dancing thrown in as the opener for the show for good measure.

First up was Delphine Wilson - forget any prejudice you may have about knitwear looking frumpy or just comfortable but not special. These knits were softly and subtly sexy with figure hugging lines, sexy openwork and laid back glamour. - so much more modern then overstatement.
The colour palette was dark and muted and the technical expertise to achieve these wonderful pieces was lightly worn. If you are looking for something special and something collectable these must be the knitwear pieces of choice.

Yuchi followed with a winning first dress in ivory jersey with a fluttering ruffles outlining the curved seaming. The pieces that followed developed this softly curved silhouette with curved cutting forming half peplums which transformed into cascade collars. Again the sheer technical involvement of creating the collection was underplayed to offer modern pieces in broken white, taupe, black, air force blue and that purple blue which always conjures up Montana and the 80's. However in the hands of Yuchi is was 2008 which was reflected in the swirl of the tulip skirt.

Vidler and Nixon were the third collection to be shown with leather the standout fabric. Two outfits which had a hint of 40's/50's in the fit of the jackets and the full skirts were terrific in silhouette and also in a new attitude for dressing for the city. With their leather/jersey fabric combo they were modern but with elegance - nothing grungy about this look. Cocktail dresses also demonstrated an urban attitude within the collection, a great surprise detail was the chic piecrust frilled hem on a neat dress.

Rizvi Millinery showed how hats can be tiny and almost coiffeur like with feathery fronds - or a true statement piece like the hat with the superb printed plastic plume swirling around it. The impression with all the millinery was that its lightness of construction meant they needed securing to the head before perhaps taking wing as flights of fancy.

Ultra sheer can be a catwalk trick, or even a moment of embarrassment - not in Steph Amans capable hands. These fragile confections form an out cobweb or wing layers over lingerie satins. The new fashion fanatics justification for shopping is now said to be buying for the next generation - these delicate whispers of garments are timeless, desirable and come in a surprising number of silhouettes and pieces with square cut overdresses, flapper shifts, and even jackets like folded wings. The decoration is prefecetly judged and never overpowers the drape and flow of the pieces. Romance is defined within this collection.

Richard Sorger is not only able to make decoration look modern, as a colourist he works in a totally skilful manner of surprise and delight. Pale crystal ropes beaded onto a dove grey, electric tangerine iridescence on claret, white on deep wine, burnt orange with white. Richard also places the exquisite decoration for maximum effect and maximum flattery spiraling the workmanship around the body and extending the tendrils of design to the back as well as the front. The final dress shown from his collection was a wonderful Bibaesque prune colour with a sparkling and shimmering hand print on the
front. In a word - great.

Report by Tony Glenville

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