HI Sushi is one of these. Tucked into a hole on Frith Street, from the outside the plastic sushi 'figurines', sandwich board and cracking turquoise paint say salmonella more than sushi. Even the name sounds suspect. But, get past the surface and you're in for a treat.

Head straight for the basement (the upstairs bar area has blinding fluro lights), settle into one of the caf style sunken tables (you can keep your shoes on) and get ready for rapid stomach expansion.

Choose the criminally low priced All You Can Eat menu (including sashimi, ramens, yakitori, miso, edamame, makis, selection of appetisers, etc) or from the interesting al la carte selection. The fish is melt-in-your-mouth fresh, beautifully presented and they've just re-claimed their liquor license, so you won't have to go sans sake.

The one thing you won't get is service with a smile, but who wants a hovering over-enthusiastic waiter anyway?

HI Sushi is a find. I thought about keeping it under wraps, but some things are just too good to keep to yourself.

HI Sushi, 40 Frith Street, W1 - 020 7734 9688
All You Can Eat menu: Mon-Thu £12.80, Fri/Sat £13.50, Sun £11.50.

TR