But alas, all is not going so well for our gastronomic superiors. Their beloved escargots are disappearing. Their poor, sexually-confused frogs are likewise fading out - taking their limbs with them. And now, like a bizarre curse from the heavens, the adored French oysters are dropping like flies. Or at least dead oysters.

Whilst 'rats from a sinking ship' might be pushing the boundaries of both reality and European amity, has anyone else noticed the apparent Gallic influx?

Within a scarce couple of months, we've gained the excessive Frenchness of Brasserie Saint-Jacques, the culinary perfection of Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, the charm of Le Cassoulet, and the curious punctuation of Bord'eaux. Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex's new Ambassade de l'Ile has certainly upped the ante - if only in absurdity. And whilst it's cuisine errs more on the side of opulent Pan-Asian, the Parisian institution of Buddha Bar is finally opening its London doors next Thursday.