Michelin-starred restaurants - in the true, cloche-lifting, ten waiters to a table, stuffed chive sense of the word - are so passé. These days, give most restaurant critics or discerning foodies an undressed wooden table, a tumbler of wine and a hunk of something well-hung or bowl of something you can eat with a spoon and you're laughing.

Canteen's pared down simplicity and well-sourced everything has, of course, been a runaway success from the get-go - to prove it they're opening their third branch on Baker Street in a couple of weeks. While on an Italian note, a new arrival that looks set to be a bit of a comfort food mecca is Lena on Great Eastern Street, which opens today.

And in chichi South Ken, Matt Hermer has just opened his second Bumpkin 'for city folk who like a little country living'. But don't be put off if you've earmarked it as Sloane Ranger territory. Okay, there may be a few cord-wearers, but the food is seriously good - Staunton black pudding with leeks and Heritage apples is pure satisfaction on a plate - and the Cotes-du-Rhone, Chateau Courac is dangerous.