WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 19, 2008 |
New Kid on the Butcher's Block |
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The
humble London café has come a long
way since those days of the gutturally hacked
'caff'. Where a lively layer of white froth
on your coffee merely meant that, either the
milk was off, or the chef still had some issues
with your comments about his bangers 'n' beans.
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A
decade or two later, and there's a Starf*cks
scarring every corner in the city - its grande-skinny-half-caf-double-shot-extra-chocolate-cappuccino-hold-the-creams
practically de rigueur.
Now, when I was a sprog, delis were rare and
homely joints - somewhere like the eternal Lina's
on Brewer Street the epitome of the breed. Yet,
when Fernandez
& Wells rocked up, the homely deli collided
at full pelt with the foam-perfect café and
female-friendly wine-bar, all wrapped in a modern
shabby-chic wrapper. And we lapped it up.
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But
with the guys behind Salt
Yard - the posh tapas mini-chain -
launching their own sexy butchers and
charcutier, is this the end of
the old deli? Is it goose, well and truly
cooked, its innards served up as a tasty
páté on a bed of wilted rocket? Personally,
I doubt it. But I have a curious craving
for a sun-blushed-tomato-pimento-olive-grilled-scarmozza-and-serano-jamon-on-rye
while I ponder it some more...
The
Blackfoot Butchers now open, 14 Charlotte
Pl, W1
Lina Stores: 18 Brewer St, W1
Fernandez
& Wells: 43 Lexington St, W1
& 73 Beak St, W1
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COMMENT
ON THIS FEATURE |
by
AC |
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TODAY'S EVENT PICKS |
Find out where you go when you sleep with the Dream Director. 8pm, ICA, The Mall SW1Y. £5 - £20. |
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Complex
music from Mancunian indie-rock
four-piece Keith.
8:30pm, Monto Water Rats, 328 Grays
Inn Rd, WC1.
£5. |
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Garden guru Beth Chatto gets a retrospective at the revamped venue. 10:30am - 5:30pm, The Garden Museum, St Mary-at-Lambeth, Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1, £6. |
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Choreographer Jasmin Vardimon celebrates her company's 10th anniversary with a retrospective new piece. 7:30pm, Peacock Theatre, Portugal Street, WC2A. £10-£20.
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