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WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 19, 2008
New Kid on the Butcher's Block

The humble London café has come a long way since those days of the gutturally hacked 'caff'. Where a lively layer of white froth on your coffee merely meant that, either the milk was off, or the chef still had some issues with your comments about his bangers 'n' beans.

A decade or two later, and there's a Starf*cks scarring every corner in the city - its grande-skinny-half-caf-double-shot-extra-chocolate-cappuccino-hold-the-creams practically de rigueur.

Now, when I was a sprog, delis were rare and homely joints - somewhere like the eternal Lina's on Brewer Street the epitome of the breed. Yet, when Fernandez & Wells rocked up, the homely deli collided at full pelt with the foam-perfect café and female-friendly wine-bar, all wrapped in a modern shabby-chic wrapper. And we lapped it up.

But with the guys behind Salt Yard - the posh tapas mini-chain - launching their own sexy butchers and charcutier, is this the end of the old deli? Is it goose, well and truly cooked, its innards served up as a tasty páté on a bed of wilted rocket? Personally, I doubt it. But I have a curious craving for a sun-blushed-tomato-pimento-olive-grilled-scarmozza-and-serano-jamon-on-rye while I ponder it some more...

The Blackfoot Butchers now open, 14 Charlotte Pl, W1
Lina Stores: 18 Brewer St, W1
Fernandez & Wells: 43 Lexington St, W1 & 73 Beak St, W1

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TODAY'S EVENT PICKS

Find out where you go when you sleep with the Dream Director. 8pm, ICA, The Mall SW1Y. £5 - £20.

Complex music from Mancunian indie-rock four-piece Keith. 8:30pm, Monto Water Rats, 328 Grays Inn Rd, WC1. £5.

Garden guru Beth Chatto gets a retrospective at the revamped venue. 10:30am - 5:30pm, The Garden Museum, St Mary-at-Lambeth, Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1, £6.

Choreographer Jasmin Vardimon celebrates her company's 10th anniversary with a retrospective new piece. 7:30pm, Peacock Theatre, Portugal Street, WC2A. £10-£20.

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