It's the toughest street on the block. It eats shops for breakfast, demolishes businesses for fun, and crushes hopes and dreams underfoot, leaving the select few who survive on top of the Soho Pile.

Poland Street, also home of UJHQ (we have tamed the beast), has seen more new arrivals and departures than a half term at Heathrow. Newbie survivors so far include Kati Roll, home of handmade Indian savouries, The Chippy, a glossy black fish & chip bar, and the hair salon, Headmasters. Casualties include the Blink Gallery, which seems to be permanently 'closed for rehanging', the unceremoniously abandoned Polka Bar, and the cursed space next to Vasco & Pierro's, which has in 6 months been a salad bar, a Russian charity shop, an empty shell, and a supermarket.

So next to take on the Poland Street beast is Cattle Grid - seemingly taking a leaf out of Bodean's survival book, serving a variety of Cow and Pig dishes, from steaks to ribs with sides and sauces to spare. With a no nonsense set up and top-notch nosh, we're feeling a fight coming on.