Wed 19 Sep, 2012 UJ LFW SS13 Round Up It's a time for firsts at this season's fashion week. SS13 has thrown in the new with the familiar: Gaga walking at Philip Treacy (with an all-black catwalk), Preen returning after 10 seasons in NY, new fash-vocab ("showsensation") and some Olympians stepping into unfamiliar territory (Louis Smith at Paul Smith, Victoria Pendleton and Andy Murray at Burberry, Jess Ennis at Mulberry). There also seemed to be a bigger emphasis on production. A host of new, bigger and better venues like The Granary Building (new St Martins campus), Tate Modern, The Savoy (and an NCP carpark in Soho) featured, and the music, oh the music, which played a bigger part than ever before (Salt-n-Pepa and Amerie were firm faves). Of course there were also the usuals: the bloggers, the frow-ers, the dramas (no slapping on this side of the pond, just storming) and Gladys the pug – this time dressed as Minnie Mouse. These are our SS13 highlights. show photos As always, the colourful fridges of vitaminwater were around every corner at Somerset House, keeping the fash-pack quenched before, during and after the shows. At the Glacéau vitaminwater sponsored shows, the scope was even more kaleidoscopic: 60s femininity met St Tropez in a flurry of rainbow colours, paisley and stripes at PPQ; Mark Fast brought the swag and Ashish went 90s, with denims, scrunchies, sparkles and a fun soundtrack. London Fashion Week SS13 tickets were provided by Glacéau vitaminwater, the official soft drink supplier to London Fashion Week. For more colourful content go to Facebook.com/vitaminwater. Click to see the Glacéau vitaminwater show photos EVERYONE WAS TALKING ABOUT - THE COLLECTIONS PRINTS: Geometric mermaids at Peter Pilotto, a youthful clashing mish-mash of patterns at Louise Gray and grown-up digital prints at Felder Felder (the perfect collection for Ibiza and Miami SS13). FUTURE BOOGIE: It was all about the party for SS13. Iridescent metallic leathers and disco glasses adorned Jonathan Saunders' catwalk, chic hip hop honeys in wigs, glittery knits, tassles and big bling stomped to Salt-n-Pepa at Mark Fast, House of Holland channelled 90s clubland, with jewelled beanies and tie dye, and it was all denim-on-denim, glitter, scrunchies and Reeboks at Ashish. ACCESSORIES: Real, life-size poodles on leashes at Mulberry. Enough said. EXOTICA: Holly Fulton went to Mexico by way of California in the 60s, Mary Katrantzou's stamp and banknote prints referenced everywhere from Venezuela to Mongolia, Issa London went all-out tropicana with toucan prints and orchids, and Moschino Cheap and Chic took inspiration from piña coladas, with pineapple motifs, bags and earrings. Oh, and Erdem looked to outer space. FRANKENSTEIN: An unlikely muse, sure, but it worked for Christopher Kane. Plastic wingnuts and bolts on jackets, a white-on-white screenprint mimicking medical tape, and even a t-shirt with the monster's face—everyone was still talking about it the next day. WHITE: From go-go boots (JW Anderson, Thomas Tait) to full ensembles (Richard Nicoll, Giles, Christopher Kane, Acne), apparently, the non-colour is the colour of spring. PARTY PHOTOS Belve sure know how to get the party started. Saturday night's AnOther Magazine bash at Annabel's saw Boy George perform Karma Chameleon and Do You Want to Hurt Me followed by a DJ set by Radiohead's Thom Yorke, while attendees were an eclectic mix: Poppy Delevingne, Dinos Chapman, Jefferson Hack, Dasha Zhukova, Alison Mosshart and Bat For Lashes' Natasha Khan. Sunday's soirée was a naughty affair with the launch of Marios Schwab's new lingerie line at Crazy Horse where guests (including Henry Holland, Zara Martin and Jessie Ware) watched a risqué show (with the dancers sporting the lingerie, no less). And on Tuesday night, Kenzo pulled quite the crowd for their AW collection at Liberty. The frow set came – Lulu Kennedy, Henry Holland, Daisy Lowe, Alexa Chung, Susie Bubble and Hamish Bowles – and danced the night away to new talent Blood Orange. See you next season. Guests drank Belvedere Vodka cocktails including Emerald Mules at AnOther Magazine, Black Raspberry Blushes at Crazy Horse and brand-inspired tipples at Kenzo, including The Kenzo Tiger. Click to see Belvedere party photos EVERYONE WAS TALKING ABOUT - BEST OF THE REST SHOW: It was all about Philip Treacy this season. New brunette Lady Gaga wowed the crowd in a full-body, hot pink cape, a floral helmet, and even a pair of gigantic Mickey Mouse ears (not all at once, though we wouldn't put it past her), while an all-black cast of models wore everything from a diamond hand to smiley rave faces. MUSIC: As Acne so clearly pointed out, music was an accessory in itself. From 90s nu-rave (Shampoo!) at House of Holland (and a dancing audience) and French rap at Ashish, to Michael Jackson at Philip Treacy and tunes du jour at Matthew Williamson (Little Dragon, Delilah, SBTRKT), everyone was bouncing and tapping. SETS: Everybody went theatrical for SS13. Meadham Kirchhoff took inspiration from Marie Antoinette (complete with cakes), the Tatanaka presentation had models posing on a diving board above a fake pool, and Nasir Mazhar set up a 90s style barber shop complete with live rappers. VENUE: The Granary Building in King's Cross, which showcased Paul Smith SS13. The hall was huge, airy and light with bricks and glass offsetting the colourful looks. Even Hamish Bowles seemed impressed. SOCIAL MEDIA: Discoveredd. Yes, another social media tool. Models donned fashion designer masks whilst parked outside the shows. Victims included Alice Temperley, Henry Holland and Louise Gray. FROW: Burberry vs Mulberry. The former had the likes of Aaron Paul, Harry Styles, Dev Patel, Mario Testino and Dita Von Teese while the latter had Ms Moss, Alexa Chung, Olivia Palermo and Lana Del Rey. Air miles win, we say. PAUL SMITH SS13 CATWALK SOUNDTRACK One of our fave catwalk soundtracks this season - get lost in the last days of summer. We've thrown in the finale track too. Baby I Love You! Music production by Peter Smith and Andrew Hale. Play TOP #LFW TWEETS Sunday Times Style @TheSTStyle Spotted: the "blogasm" face. The wide-eyed quasi-sexual grimace adopted by fashion types when posing for a blogger's snap shot. RG #LFW Poppy Dinsey @PoppyD #LFW is probably the only place in the world where you can get elbowed in the face and not get an apology. Ta, love. Fashion Confessions @FashConfessions Anna Wintour and Lady Gaga: a match made in heaven. Both have their p-p-p-p-poker face. henryholland @henryholland Just got directed to the ladies toilet. Brilliant. And I'm wearing flats. Mandi Lennard @MandiLennard @Liberty_KateB @dazed_fashion @barbiestyle @fashion_east @BARBIE doesn't do 'jeggings' they're vintage Helmut Lang #PHOTOFASHIONBARBIE SHOP OPENINGS Now it's on to the shops post-LFW, naturally. La Wintour opened the new Rag and Bone, the new downstairs Bookmarc in Marc Jacobs offers what it says on the can (books, DVDs, pens, pencil cases) and there's the new McQ flagship on Dover Street, a fabulous 3-floor emporium. UJ LOVES - Minnie Mouse Must Haves We've said it once, we'll say it again: it's all about Minnie. Our favourites from her LFW collection are the badges from Bunney, the iconic print dress by Giles, Lulu Guinness' bag, Richard Nicoll's ear dress and the Terry de Havilland kicks. Minnie would approve. Minnie Mouse Must Haves are all available for auction on eBay. All proceeds go to the Fashion Arts Foundation. By JC, MY, RT, TR, KS and BC Urban Junkies is an e-publication delivering the very latest London trends, launches and events. Sign up here. LIKE SHARE FORWARD PREVIOUS EDITION (c) 2012 Urban Junkies. All rights reserved. Reproductions of any portion of this website only with our express permission. Urban Junkies is a free daily mailer. All listings and features are editorial: We do not receive any payment from venues, artists or promoters. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy of information listed but we cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.