Smack bang in the centre of the City, next to contemporary Italian joint L’Anima, Chrysan is surrounded by offices – so you can be sure the big boys will be breezing in for a power lunch. The first of two restaurants to open in the area by the Hakkasan Group, expect an Asian takeover in the next few months.

Perhaps it picks up in the evening, but when we went for lunch the restaurant was eerily quiet (except for the hotel lobby music). This is fine dining rather than Tokyo backstreets, so expect hushed reverence from the staff and ceremonious placing of plates. The separate bar looks perfect for cocktails and light bites, so for a more casual night out, head here first.

Traditional Japanese ingredients combined with French techniques and local produce means this isn’t your usual sushi spot. Chef Yoshihiro Murata, an internationally acclaimed master of kaiseki (similar to Western haute cuisine), turns out beautiful dishes with unusual flavour combinations – think Scottish lobster with dashi broth, magnolia leaf with pork belly and salmon with mint miso sauce. Bento boxes are a quick fix for lunch but go all out with the tasting menu for dinner. Desserts are where it gets really experimental: cucumber soup, soy caramel tarte tatin and cauliflower crème are not for the faint hearted.

Designed by Yoshiaki Nakamura, a master craftsman, carpenter and designer from Kyoto, the interior features his signature clean lines and pale wooden structures. For a room with a view, book the chef's table, which features an open window into the kitchen. And make sure to check out the high-tech loos – heated seats are just the beginning.

Chef Murata holds an impressive seven Michelin stars in Japan. No time for a Far East jaunt? Chrysan is kaiseki haute cuisine without the air miles.