Travel
Originally published on Wednesday, 23rd July 2008
Weekend Away: Iceland
It‘s indicative of the country’s character that an earthquake hit minutes after our plane landed. If ever there was a place that felt alive, this was it. I on the other hand felt quite literally close to death. An excellent start.
After being told there would be no chance meetings with Father Christmas and that the current season boasted only three hours of night, I was slightly hesitant: what was this place at the end of the earth, and was there anything up there apart from Vikings, armoured polar bears and Northern Lights? (Yes, I do gather most of my cultural references from popular children’s fiction.)
Eye mask firmly in hand, I discovered instead a surprisingly cosmopolitan city, boasting charming cobbled streets amongst imposing buildings, modern cuisine and local café culture, friendly inhabitants and an unexpected creative vibe to rival any major European capital. And all surrounded by arguably the most awe-inspiring landscape on the planet, from steaming volcanoes and earthquakes to hot springs and geysers exploding from the ground.
To Rest Your Weary Head
Named after and located in the city’s hippest postcode, Hotel 101 boasts cool Nordic design and a warm, boutique atmosphere. The cosy lounge and bar with open fireplace and high backed chairs make it a popular nightspot with fashionable locals too.
Hotel 101: Hverfisgata 10, 101 Reykjavik, 580 0101, Double rooms start at £200 per night.
Where to Eat
For home-cooked tradition, Laekjarbrekka serves fantastic lobster and tender lamb, whilst Icelandic Fish & Chips offers all manner of fish with dips made with the local dairy speciality, skyr.
Laekjarbrekka: Bankastraeti 2, 101 Reykjavik, 551 4430
Icelandic fish and chips: Tryggvagötu 8, 511-1118,
Where to drink
Orange’s drinks menu appears as a mystery map of Iceland, asking you to pick a destination and wait for the result. Drinks are served swirling in dry ice whilst nibbles are suspended in buckets under giant black helium balloons.
Orange: Geirsgata 9, 101 Reykjavik, 561 111,
What to see
Iceland didn’t have a word for ‘design’ until 1950; as such artists aren’t bound by heavy traditions and their innovative work reflects this freedom. The Icelandic Design Centre, and adjacent Kraum, display and sell work from over 80 artists, including fish skin accessories and lava jewellery.
Icelandic Design Centre & Kraum: Adalstraeti 10, 101 Reykjavik, 517 7797,
When to go
The Icelandic Airwaves Festival in October is a must see for any music fans, boasting upcoming acts from the USA, Europe and home-grown talent.
Where to watch the world go by
Climb up Hallgrimskirja Church Tower for a panoramic view of the city.
Where to shop
Laugavegur, the main shopping street, is dotted with cool crafts galleries, jewellery shops and design boutiques. Naked Ape is also worth a visit: with a screen printing workshop attached, it hosts guest artists and sells their wares next door in a technicolour loft space.
Naked Ape: Bankastræti 14, 101 Reykjavík, 551 1415,
What to bring back
Everyone in Iceland is in a band. 12 Tonar is an independent music shop and label which lets you hang out and listen to music with no obligation to buy, though you’re bound to walk out with something.
12 Tonar: Skolavordustigur 15, 101 Reykjavik, 511 5656,
Escaping Further
The Blue Lagoon’s mineral rich hot springs are perfect for a relaxing dip, whilst The Golden Circle Tour takes in the waterfall Gulfoss, Geysir (the original geyser), and Thingvellir, site of the world’s first parliament. Check out Iceland Naturally and The Icelandic Tourist Board for more info.
Blue Lagoon Geothermal Spa: 420 8800,
How to get there
Icelandair flies up to 18 times each week from the UK to Iceland, with 14 departures from London Heathrow, two from Glasgow and two from Manchester to Reykjavik, from £98 one-way. To book call 0870 787 4020 or visit Icelandair
