Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 16th March 2011
A Modern Month
The Modern Pantry’s on the move
It feels like the West End’s dining scene is confidently exploding all over Soho. Spuntino (meaning ‘little snack’) finally arrived on Monday, bringing with it scrummy looking sliders, a £3 Croque Monsieur that’s got us lining up lunch, and a ‘Kissing Chair’ double-bar stool for couples. Ottolenghi spawned Nopi down Warwick Street, and it looks like good old Leon is adding to its arsenal with a sparkly new (and spacious looking) tenth venue on Old Compton which promises a ‘cookbook library’ downstairs.
But being the wizened old Soho residents that we are, we know that these mean streets chow down and spit out more well-meaning meal-makers than most. RIP Cattle Grid. We miss you random Mexican place whose name now escapes us. Ciao Fairtrade tea joint beloved of Natmags locals.
Seems sensible then, to dip a toe in before you make the leap, which is exactly what cult Clerkenwell eatery The Modern Pantry is doing, by setting up shop in Wardour Street’s Meza for a one month residency. Dishes by New Zealand chef Anna Hansen range from bar snacks and canapés to à la carte, pre-theatre (particularly tasty at 3 courses for £15) and the 7-course tasting menu (£50 or £80 with wine). Pop in for sugar-cured prawn scrambled eggs, coconut and pandan duck leg curry, roast cod with chorizo and clams, or salted coconut tapioca. There’ll also be a bar serving cocktails like the Tamarillo Daiquiri, Japanese Mary and Rose Mojito.
They’ll be in and out before a full moon gets the big bad wolves of the West End howling for new prey. We’ll just be whining about another local loss. Load up before they lock up.
Info
The Modern Pantry is taking bookings NOW. The first 100 UJ subscribers to reserve a table will receive priority booking and a champagne cocktail on arrival.
Open for dinner Tues - Sat, 22nd March - 16th April.
0207 314 4002
100 Wardour Street, W1F 0TN.
