Marriott Autograph Collection, Madrid

About

We’re not ones for the bigwig hotel chain, but when we were invited to two of Marriott’s Autograph Collection properties in Madrid, we were intrigued to see how the other side do things. It turns out they do things well, merging 5-star bling with boutique panache.

The Hotels

Both hotels are housed in historic, listed buildings in great locations (though a cab journey in central Madrid will never cost you more than €10). The AC Palacio del Retiro stands opposite Retiro Park in a grand manor house. While many original features still remain – flooring, stained glass windows, a carriage entrance – the rooms are a welcome, modern counterpart. They’re smooth, bachelor pad-like dens: think gargantuan headboards, big speakers, brown/navy detailing and, in some rooms, Lichstenstein prints on glass walls through which you can see a glossy bathroom. The lounge is a highlight, with Art Deco features, design books everywhere and Ercol-style furniture (eating a light breakfast of pan con tomate here was a highlight).

The AC Santo Mauro, just the other side of town, was built in 1894. It began life as home to the Duke of Santo Mauro, who later built a house next door for his daughter, which also remains part of the hotel. It’s a gem: the Salon Chino is decadent and exotic in one breath – there’s Chinese patterning, old armoires and – our favourite – pineapple light fixtures and palm tree lamp stands. The Salon Rojo is equally ornate with red hues, French sofas and heavy chandeliers. The Chivas Bar reminded us of the Connaught Bar, all dark materials, 1920s elegance and strong cocktails. Like in the Palacio del Retiro, rooms are all unique with modern fittings. In our junior suite, stairs led downstairs to the rest of the room. The Library restaurant, adorned floor to ceiling in old books, is a great dinner spot, and they’ve recently launched a brunch menu, allegedly the best in the city (an accomplishment considering brunch isn’t big in España).

Eat and Drink

The luxe and the non-luxe work well side by side in Madrid – but wherever you eat you’re going to eat well. In terms of local haunts, Casa de Granada, perched atop an apartment block with a conspicuous streetside entrance, is a great place for some tapas and cañas, as is the Mercado de San Miguel. Hop from stall to stall while picking at croquetas, pimientos de Padrón, gambas and jamón. For modern tapas, try the chef’s table at Estado Puro. We dined on deconstructed tortilla, mod-patatas bravas and black, ink-drenched squid with what can only be described as rice krispies. For a sit-down dinner head to the shiny, scandi-esq Luiz Bombón, where you’ll find Madrid’s “pijo” (posh) set. Order from the fresh seafood bar – we went for oysters (superb) and king crab – or the very on-trend grill-based menu.

Party

Hit the bar scene in La Latina for cañas, cava and the best mojitos (at Delic). For more pijo fun, head toRamses. Divided into different areas – champagne bar, Dom Perignon room, club, terrace and restaurant – it’s here that you will spot Madrid’s It crowd.

Other Things to Check Out

Museums reign in Madrid. See the Spanish classics (Goya, Velazquez) at the grand Museo Nacional del Prado, or for more contemporary works go to the palm-lined Thyssen Gallery which has a great permanent selection of works by Georgia O’Keeffe, Mondrian, Lichtenstein and Miró. Spain’s equivalent of the MoMA, the Reina Sofia, is also a must, if not just for the top floor views. Until September, they are displaying a retrospective of Salvador Dalí’s work, which is one of the best exhibitions we’ve seen all year. Look out for his lesser-known pieces, such as the collaborative film with Disney and an advert with Lanvin. Our favourite piece? The lobster telephone, of course.

Top Tip

Ask to stay in room 107 at the AC Santo Mauro – it feels like a studio apartment. When out and about, order gin and tonics (“gin tónica”), which come served in huge balloon glasses with generous lashings of gin.

Why Go Now

To see the Salvador Dalí exhibition. The Euro exchange rate at the moment is not good, but Madrid is cheap.