Style & Design
Emilio de la Morena
Originally published on Monday, 23rd February 2009
Emilio de la Morena
It’s nice to see this student of sculpture returning so definitely to his structural roots. This season, it’s the Spanish Basque sculptor, Eduardo Chillida, an artist famed for his abstract works, who informed the designer’s collection.
Theatrical, sculptural jackets seemed to cocoon models in a fiercely angular way, whilst stand-out pieces included a jacket crafted out of curved, aerodynamic sheets of mustard wool. It was Jetsons couture with all of the detail concentrated on the top of the body, leaving it to Emilio’s signature, body-contouring stretch shift dresses to balance the bottom.
A rich autumnal palette of navy, mocha, yellow and red was embellished with metal domed studs, adding texture and detail to what was a strong showing true to this sculptor’s heart. Jewellery from up and coming superstar Maria Francesca Pepe, and jumbo wedged ankle boots by Charlotte Olympia (look out for her debut collection hitting Harrods next month) completed the look.