Daily Coverage: Jacob Kimmie

Van Doncke & The Devil

Making a catwalk debut is always a challenge. In a season where the shift to a more covered up approach to fashion is being explored, it can be especially troublesome for some designers. Mr Kimme showed that a dress may be high-necked but still sexy and desirable. The collection demonstrated a sure editorial eye and an understanding of contemporary fashion with an ageless and timeless elegance without an over-emphasis on the retro.

The first coat in matt black with a fit-and-flare silhouette was tightly sashed with luscious black velvet, the frilled blouses in white and ivory teamed with black skirts or pants managed to avoid either the secretary look or the 80s. Winning items from the collection, which used the classic shades of black, white, creamy ivory and gold, included a sexy crepe dress in ivory with black trim and a great black velvet embossed on ivory coat in a baroque pattern. Stunning gold coatdresses were bang on seasonal trend with the return to importance of this item. Several dresses, which spiraled and wrapped around the body, made the simple statement: Red Carpet.

That these clothes will be expensive is a foregone conclusion, but for the woman looking for something special- away from the obvious- the collection provided a welcome opportunity to invest in a new name for that special occasion.

Reports by Tony Glenville