A working farm in the Upper Douro, this 500-year-old UNESCO heritage property used farm items – barns, wine vats – to create rooms for guests, expanding their offering as a company into wine tourism in doing so. About an hour and a half from Porto by train, the hotel is located in São João da Pesqueira.
The Hotel
They say the whole Douro Valley is here and it certainly feels like you’re on top of the world. Set over 400 hectares of land stretching from the River Douro to over 600 metres above, the terrain is vast, and the farm’s mountain-top position gives you a great view of the area. This is one of the largest and oldest farms in the region.
The Vibe
The property is a working farm, albeit one with exceptionally good, understated taste. Temperatures are extreme here – in the summer, 40℃ is not rare, and the staff dress accordingly in muted colours and flowy linens, with Oliver Peoples-style shades. Dusty Defenders buzz around – this is a big property – and different lounging areas are dotted throughout, all surrounded by the fragrant scent of Spanish and French lavender, oranges and lemons. On a hot day, time stands still; the property’s large weeping willow blows in the wind and muffled sounds can be heard rising from the river. There are fire pits for colder nights and rocking chairs dotted around for laidback moments.
The Rooms
Rooms are spread out over seven buildings and include a six-bedrooms and a suite in the old Overseer’s House; five double bedrooms in the old barn; seven bedrooms in the old staff dormitories; a romantic abode that was the old tool store; and two wine storage tanks that are now, amazingly, suites. There’s also a house, Casa Grande, that you can rent on its own, with six bedrooms, a kitchen, living room with fireplace, and a beautiful infinity pool.
Restaurants/Bars
The phrase farm-to-table gets thrown around a lot, but when you’re actually sitting in the middle of a farm, it makes sense. The restaurant here overlooks the extensive farm, is open to guests and the public, and focuses on products grown on the farm and “zero kilometre” products, acquired by bartering with neighbours. Breakfast is served here, and includes bread from their wood-fired oven, fresh juice and oranges from their groves.
Highlights
There’s something special about this place. The staff make you feel like family, and you can tell that if you were here around the grape or oil harvest, for example, you would be treated as part of the team and included in the festivities. The location is incredible, and prices are reasonable, especially in low season.
Anything Else
They have seven trails, each with a different focus (olive oil, hunting areas, birds, etc) that you can hike. There’s also a Visitor Centre for info about the Douro Valley and the property’s history, and a store where you can buy products (wine, port, olive oil, gin) from the farm and the Gran Cruz portfolio.
