Restaurants & Bars: Restaurant Reviews

BERNERS TAVERN

Jason Atherton’s all day slick affair

Details

Opening hours

Mon-Fri: 7am-12am
Sat-Sun: 9am-12am

Address

10 Berners Street, W1T 3NP

More info

Location

The Marriot /Ian Schrager EDITION is almost directly opposite the Schrager of yesteryear, the Sanderson. Look for the awning of light bulbs and friendly doormen.

Vibe

It’s buzzy, welcoming, and the music’s atmospheric but not too loud to talk. It was largely fashion week when we were there, but there was a great mixture of fashion folk, suits, and the odd hotel guest eating on their own taking it all in. UJ loves a solo diner.

Flavours

With Jason Atherton at the helm, this was always going to be one slick affair. Oysters come fresh, cold, and with a pickled shallot Vietnamese vinaigrette. UJ normally isn’t a fan of scallop ceviche, but we are here (they melt in your mouth). The egg, ham and peas starter already has an office following. The iceberg salad – we’re all about half a head of lettuce – with blue cheese, avocado, garlic and yogurt had no business being as good as it was and may just be our new staple. We were hungry, so we also had duck fat fries for starters, yum. With mains we went fishy. Halibut with squid ink risotto, garlic squid and broccoli was a highlight. We really wanted to try the crispy shrimp roll (read fried), but when we heard it came in a baguette, with Marie Rose sauce and a side of chips we realised we might have to save it for another day. Desserts included interesting pairings like goat’s cheese, sorbet and meringue (meringues were the size of buttons, perfect), and sweet potato crème brulee, but we’d recommend a liquid dessert, aka the Cereal Killer cocktail (a la Momofuko). Rum, Kahlua, coco pops milk, yum.

Décor

This is one regal room, with soft lighting and a stylish crowd. Gold baroque style frames adorn the walls and the tables are perfectly spread out – close enough to say hello to the table beside you, but far enough apart that they can’t hear your every word. UJ loves the up lighting behind the bar and the circular booths.

Upshot

This is an all-day haunt with crisp white tablecloths, a great menu, flattering lighting and staff that make you want to return. We’ll be back for that crispy shrimp roll…and the chipirones in the lobby bar. And maybe the Vanilla waffles with bananas, too.

Originally published on
30th September 2013

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