COYA

In a Sentence

Subterranean Peruvian restaurant and chic Georgian townhouse members’ bar from Arjun Waney of Zuma and the Arts Club.

Location

A 10-minute walk from Green Park station and almost at Hyde Park corner. This is a Mayfair haunt that has the potential to attract more than a Mayfair crowd.

Vibe

The entrance floor might not be running smooth as silk but get downstairs and it’s a whole other story. The Maître d’ is on it. Head chef Sanjay Dwivedi would give Jeremy King a run for his money for best host, and the service – although not all knowing yet – was friendly and attentive (in a pleasant way). There’s a definite upbeat sunny South American vibe and for a Monday night in the opening week, it was almost completely full by 8pm.

Flavours

The menu was clear, interesting and involved everything we like best: fresh ingredients, innovative combinations, a lot of spice and raw with healthy cooking methods (lime, charcoal, grill). Must haves were the entire ceviche menu, ox heart anticuchos (grilled meat), Chilean sea bass (of course), spicy beef fillet and a crispy version of patatas bravas. A highlight was their use of corn-corn salad, crispy corn in the sea bream ceviche, purple corn with monkfish, white corn and sweet garlic in rice, and last but not least, the surprisingly delicious popcorn sundae. Yes, we ate it and would do it again in a heartbeat. UJ also loved the grilled meats (lamb chops made the brother nostalgic for Balafia) and smoky tomato salsa.

Decor

Incan bling! This is Peru comes to Mayfair – so think gold crushed velvet and dark wood with mirrors, antiques and soft lighting. There are enough rooms to make this a varied night out.

Upshot

This space ticks quite a few boxes. Members’ bar with terrace; pisco bar with extensive selection; dining room with multiple kitchens and flavours; djs and live music (on nights) and a buzz throughout. And we love a townhouse.