Leroy

Jack Lewens and Ed Thaw made their name with Ellory, the Michelin-starred London Fields spot with a penchant for its hyper-seasonal menu. Leroy is their second chapter, with head chef Sam Kamienko leading the Shoreditch site. The setting might be slightly puritanical, but the menus sing. Whipped cods roe and crisps make you ask why you’ve ever snacked on anything else. Beetroot, blackberry and hazelnuts were a favourite for summer, and book in with a friend for whole lemon sole or pork chop and bobby beans to share. But the desserts are the best analogy of Leroy – a bowl of cherries with ricotta or a chocolate pot with raspberries: simple, succinct, and just as it should be.