It’s always great to see a restaurant flourish in a space where another recently closed and that’s definitely the case at 20 Berkeley Street. NIJŪ (which means ‘20’ in Japanese) , with globally renowned culinary director Endo Kazutoshi behind it, has been an instant success. Call on any given night, and you’re likely to be advised to book weeks in advance. Which is not surprising really, given that this is Endo of Endo Rotunda (and many others) fame.
The Vibe
There’s a very upbeat vibe here. Not in a Nobu Berkeley (RIP) way, but with a tone that’s just right (and very hard to achieve). The lighting is soft, the wood is warm, and there’s a sense of theatricality to proceedings; XXL tunas from Spain are hanging in fridges for all to see, and dishes like the flaming sakura and cherry baked Alaskas going around add a little entertainment. The exceptional staff keep things moving along at a good pace, too.
The Menu
The concept here is ‘katei ryōri’, or Japanese home-cooking. Highlights include the spring vegetable tempura with matcha sea salt; an insanely good smoked tomato and seaweed salad, with tomato and shiso sorbet (do not leave without trying this; in fact, we’d go back just for this); Spanish tuna smoked over hay; a variety of different steaks (fillet, sirloin, and rib-eye) in different sizes, served with Japanese condiments; and sharing dishes like mushroom and wild garlic gohan with miso butter and chicken katsu, shredded cabbage, and tonkatsu.
To Note
Don’t miss their mid-century, award-winning bar downstairs, Nipperkin, which focuses on vinyl and cocktails that are divided into three categories: ‘Prep Season’, ‘Lean Season’, and ‘Plethora Season’, representing the harvest cycles, ensuring they are always using the freshest ingredients. If you’re a cocktail lover, definitely check out this drinks list, which reads more like a Michelin tasting menu.
