You know what Soho needed? A good, fun, doesn’t-break-the-bank sushi spot, and just like that, voila! Sticks‘n’Sushi. But it’s a chain, you say. And they have a menu with pictures… yes, both things are true, but here chain doesn’t mean generic, and photos don’t mean danger danger. Sticks’n’Sushi Beak Street feels like a fast fashion Danish/Japanese version of a Hakkasan: dark, with good lighting and a buzz, but a more laid back, casual affair. It’s also sophisticated and cosy, which is hard to do with a space this large (170 covers). And the food? Our tip: order everything. They say it’s traditional sushi with yakitori and a Nordic twist, we say it’s high quality fish with an extensive, innovative menu. Highlights include black cod daikon rolls (we recommend asking for the cream cheese on the side), sea bass tataki with truffle oil, ‘bubbly’ ebi with miso aioli, caviar with Wagyu tartare, scallop ceviche, a sashimi platter, fried Jerusalem artichokes, robata sticks, innovative salads and a dessert taster – which is one of everything sweet for £30. Come here on a Friday and be prepared to make friends with the next table. Oh, and if you’re in the market for sake, to celebrate this new location, they’ve made their own sustainable, London-brewed sake called Rice Revived. Sustainable is the word is the word is the word…
