Just 40 minutes from bustling Lisbon lies L’AND Vineyards, in the wine region, Alentejo. A property that celebrates the grape in everything it offers – restaurant, spa, products, vineyards, experiences – it’s set on a wild but peaceful location, with buildings that have modern, low-impact design. They call it ‘sober luxury’; we call it an understated five-star for our times. This is truly a class act with a real sense of place.
The Property
This is one project where you immediately want to know the name of the architects – Promontorio from Lisbon – as they have done an incredible job. The buildings look extremely contemporary, but fit 100% into their surroundings. Placement, angles, colours, and configurations: all have been thoroughly thought through and work together. Materials are a balanced combination of sophisticated and nature-based and all elements seem to ultimately let nature be the star. The central lake gives the property a sort of peacefulness, and the medieval castle in the distance reminds you of where you are: you might only (astoundingly) be 40 minutes from the Portuguese capital, but you feel a world away.
The Vibe
Sophisticated lodge for oenophiles, spa and fine-food lovers. The dress code is more chic puffer jacket and streamlined leather trainers than designer bling; the indoor fires and outdoor fire pits also make things cosy. The palette is mostly muted, focusing more on textures, with odd pops of colour (including, fittingly, quite a lot of burgundy); and someone with very good taste has selected the art collection and local handicrafts.
The Suites
The suites feel more like private villas and range from 75 to 120 sqm. Sky View Suites have huge skylights with retractable blinds, so you can (literally) sleep under the stars; they also have fireplaces, stone bathtubs, sofas, and dining tables. Outside on the patio, there are comfortable armchairs, a fire pit, a shower, and in the back, a plunge pool. It may sound like there’s a lot going on, but it feels very zen; the circular layout of the suites makes the most of their space.
Treats like madeleines with a note to ‘close your eyes and guess what they’re made of’ add a playful spirit to your stay. Almost everything you eat – fruit cakes have lavender buds from the gardens, gummies are made from their wine, honey from their bees and olives from their trees – reminds you how resourceful this luxe setup is.
MAPA Restaurant
This is a very special dining room. Copper Tom Dixon lamps hang above en masse to look like a sort of rainshower, offset by simple, large, elegant, white tablecloth-clad tables. But the real star is the wall of glass which lets the exterior in; it almost feels like you’re floating above the trees.
The tasting ‘Caminhos’ menu, by chef David Jesus, takes you on a gastronomic journey, showcasing the best of Portugal (shrimp from the Algarve, tuna from the Azores, red mullet from Setbúl, etc), with global influences, including Peruvian and Japanese. It’s creative, modern, and delicious.
For wine, there’s an option to do all Portuguese wines if you opt for pairings; they’re all artisanal/reserve wines. For both food and wine, you can also order from an à la carte menu, too.
Café da Viagem
In addition to MAPA, there’s also a wine bar and more casual restaurant, Café da Viagem, that has an eclectic international menu with everything from gyoza and curries to sashimi, tartares, and light bar bites.
Wellbeing
The spa here, like everything else, is based on wine. Products by Vinoble are made using grape seeds (amongst other things) and are extremely fragrant. The spa, all black slate and wood, is serene, and there’s a heated pool, steam room and sauna, as well as treatment rooms with heated beds. They also have things like sound therapy, reiki, and reasonable PTs to book, and there’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it outdoor pool which almost blends into the ground. Even the sunloungers are understated; we love.
Wine
Lest we forget, this is also a vineyard! They make their own wine here, and they offer short, fun courses (approx two hours) where you learn about the Portuguese wine regions via tasting and maps. In some classes, you even make your own wine, complete with a bespoke label.
Anything Else
There’s an easy, 3.5km eco-trail that takes you around the property and vineyards; we hear the harvest banquets here at the end of the summer are great, and they have residences, too, which is where we’d like to live. You’re also really close to Évora (20 minutes), which has a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
