The Grinds, Lantana, Flat White, Workshop… London’s Aussie café revolution may be nothing new, but recently we’ve been noticing a new wave of Antipodean influence – namely, the rise of modern ‘Australian cuisine’. And we’re not just talking avo on toast, but rather, a crop of restaurants showcasing Australia’s contemporary adaptations and interpretations of its multicultural heritage.
We first noticed it with Kurobuta, Australian Scott Hallsworth’s playful adaptation of Japanese izakaya cuisine: Wagyu beef sliders, tuna sashimi pizzas and earl grey brûlées. Over in King’s Cross, the latest Granger & Co. has a roundup of Bill Granger’s version of international cuisine, from Thai-style yellow fish curry and Korean kimchee with ricotta dumplings to Japanese miso aubergine.
Down the road is Vietnamese-Australian Damon Bui’s take on Vietnamese dishes at CôBa. Inspired by the recipes of his refugee mother, the food, though mainly Vietnamese, has been given an Australian spin via its devotion to a coal fire barbeque and traditional Chinese cooking wine swapped for cognac and smokey whiskey for added depth and complexity.
For some Italian meets Australian dining, head to newly opened Bernardi’s on Seymour Street. Helmed by Melbourne boys Gabriel and Marcello Bernardi, the menu is inspired by “food and wine from all across Italy as well as creative Italian hotbeds like Melbourne and Sydney” – meaning traditional dishes (antipasti, pasta and risotto, secondi…) but with ingredients inspired by local and seasonal produce (burratina with beetroot, pappardelle garnished with sprout tops…). For more obvious Antipodean influences, try their brunch menu of French toast, scrambled eggs with Cornish crab and poached eggs with prosciutto.
Lastly, we’re looking forward to the opening of yakitori restaurant Jidori. Drawing upon the rich tradition of Tokyo’s yakitori joints, we’ve been told to expect an experience as close to a Japanese yakitori-ya as possible, but with Australians Brett Redman and Natalie Lee-Joe in charge, we’re sure a few creative interpretations will be thrown into the mix.
