Every so often a new take on a tried cuisine breaks into the London restaurant mainstream and revives a beaten palate.

Eight years ago Momo did it for Moroccan, Amaya's doing wonders for Indian and now the newly opened Wizzy (the nickname of its darling owner and exec chef Hwi Shim) is turning Korean all Nobu.

Indeed Wizzy learnt her trade between the famous Boris-Becker-in-a-broom-cupboard-conception eatery and Hakkasan, working front-of-house under Alan Yau for over a decade.

She's since ditched the notepad and pen to don her whites, providing a fabulously concise menu within understated interiors that force the focus onto the food. Succulent beef rib stew that's been slow-cooked for nine hours, three-day marinated baby crab in sesame glazed rice with tobiko caviar, tender beef tartar washed down by moreish organic granite for dessert... Mmmm...

Previously the preserve of New Malden (and no, I don't know where that is either, but it sits alongside Kingston and Surbiton on the fictional Greater London Monopoly board), we predict Korean becoming accessible to all very soon.

My only question is, what's taken it so long?