When I was a little girl my mum made me vegetarian. We recycled everything and ate lentil lasagnes in hippy dippy cafes instead of juicy Big Macs like the other kids I knew.

As I got older I eschewed the path of leanness, though still retained a stealth, covert posse of comrades-in-green.

"Dahling", I implored them, "but wouldn't you be happier living just that teensy bit closer to town and not with fifty others? Really, you're a little too old to be wearing hemp..."

The brainchild of three (count 'em) charities, Acorn House lies in London's most reborn area, King's Cross, a locale already primed for ethical eating by Konstam. Every element of the initiative will be sustainable, the building is formed from organic and recycled materials, menus are seasonal, no ingredients save from fowl have ever flown and dishes are available in a range of sizes to minimise waste. The former River Café chef entitles his cuisine 'Modern London'. We love.