Believe me, the move from Kensington to Clapham eighteen months ago wasn't an easy one. To me, the place was either grungey (that bit around the Common) or chavvy (Clapham Junction), with not much in between. "But Clapham's great!", those who already lived there cried. "It's full of really good restaurants." So I tried them.

Osteria Antica Bologna - mediocre food and odd lighting. Tsunami - stroppy staff and slightly rancid marinade on the 'sun-kissed salmon'; Rapscallion - good food, friendly service but strangely slippery seating and tiny cramped tables. The only saving grace, it seemed, was Numero Uno, on the very un-grungey, and totally un-chavvy, Northcote Road. But even the most diehard creature of habit cannot live on exemplary lobster linguine alone.

So it was a relief when three new arrivals appeared recently. Bright-young-chef Adam Byatt has made a welcome return to his old stomping ground (his previous place was Thyme) with Trinity, a sophisticated modern European dining room specialising in seasonal produce. Curiously named after a Japanese radish, Mooli is in fact a sleek and sassy little Italian that has already built up a cult following with its focus on light, fresh flavours.