Global footprint guilt can be a pain. Who isn't occasionally tempted by raspberries from Kenya or radicchio from Thailand? Or actually checks whether the salmon they're eating is really from the rugged coast of Scotland and not flown in from Peru?

Spring brings sweet relief. The warm weather means there's a wealth of tasty stuff from our own fair isles. I've always thought of asparagus as being one of the stateliest of vegetables, so it seems fitting that it's being given the royal treatment at the Dorchester Grill. There's a whole menu dedicated to the stuff - whizzed into gazpacho, nestling against morels and crayfish and whipped into a mousse to accompany wild sea trout.

Acorn House is, of course, a positive shrine to all things timely. Their spring menu offers everything from pea and broad bean soup to chargrilled leg of lamb with rosemary and anchovy. Okay, we know that lamb's supposed to be even better in the summer, but we'll let them off seeing as the rhubarb Bellinis are divine.