Inaccessibility and members' bars are, conversely, often the perfect marriage.

It either implies that rare thing: a genuine private club, or a destination venue in the truest sense of the phrase.

The Cobden was both - simultaneously selective and renowned for being one of the most unlikely locales for an establishment of its kind. But just like other once-roaring West London faves (192 RIP and look at what's happened to poor Woody's), in recent years it lost its bite.

Like your favourite old aunt, it was still much loved and highly respected though looking a trifle worn. Which is why chairman Luke Johnson (owner of other little ventures such as Channel Four and Caprice Holdings) breathed new life into the venue, adding a new bar and revamping it throughout.

Members enjoy dedicated film and wine-tasting evenings, a resident pianist (the capital's session musicians must be creaming their jeans at the current live revival) and Shopaholics Anonymous, a monthly evening of fashion, deejays and beauty bliss.

Jade Jagger, Hugh Grant, Stella McCartney and Erin O'Connor are just a few of the celebrity members, and the originals are pouring back once more...

So if you've been boycotting West London lately for lack of anywhere to go, it may be time to give it another chance.