Growing up as a sort-of only child (I have a younger half brother but he lives in the States) I used to suffer from sibling envy, longing to be an Ingalls, or a Huxtable, or any family bigger than my own.

Siblings, it seems, are currently the new thing in Restaurantland, too. Tom's twin Robert has joined him at the stove at Tom's Kitchen, while Chris and Jeff Galvin have enlisted brother number three, David, to help stir the Hollandaise at Galvin Bistrot De Luxe.

And restaurateurs themselves are clearly feeling a bit broody. Just opened for business is The Rosendale in West Dulwich, the new, grillier sibling to The Greyhound in Battersea, with its own organic kitchen garden (so right now) and a choice of produce-conscious posh-ish nosh or barbie.