Urban Junkies has teamed up
with wine guru extraordinaire Tom
Harrow to bring you the Wine Chap's useful Wine Tips.
1. ShelfTalk: 2005 Rhône
Well, why not? Somewhat overlooked in the scramble to buy Bordeaux and
then Burgundy in this superlative vintage, there are some terrific wines
from both the north of the valley (focussed, resonant, distinguished
Syrah) and the southern end (opulent, hedonistic, unctuous Grenache-based).
Anything under £12 retail should drink well now but there are
plenty of cuvées from the vineyards of Côte Rotie, Hermitage
and St Joseph (North), Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Vacqueyras (South), which
at £20+ are worthy of cellaring for 5-10 years at least.
2. BoozeBluff: 'For reds at least - Portugal is
the new Austria'
Try dropping this gem into a conversation around wine cognoscenti and
see the reaction. (If you need to back up such errant nonsense, follow
up by mentioning how Blaufränkisch is the only affordable red wine
in most Michelin-starred London joints and recollect approvingly the
sophisticated wines now coming out of the Dao and Douro regions in Northern
Portugal; Quinta Do mumble mumble...)
3. WineMate: Vacherin Mont d'Or meets (Tocai)
Friulano
Served hot from the oven out of its own wooden box, with fingers of
crusty sourdough, the goopily gourgeous seasonal cow's milk cheese
from the Jura makes a great partner to the nutty, dried-quince flavours
of this complex white varietal from North-East Italy.
4. DrinkOut: Hereford Road
Its previous incarnation, Veronica's, served traditional British food
- i.e., unfailingly mediocre - to a generation whose offspring now consider
Bumpkin, round the corner, a gastronomic hotspot. Opened four weeks
ago, there have now been enough reviews
of Hereford Road for you to appreciate the St John style menu, and my
Ox-tongue, chard and pickles - like a thick-cut New York deli pastrami
bagel (sans bagel) - was reassuringly carniverous as was the grey-leg
partridge and game liver pate.
Both were well-served by an '06 Roussillon red from Domaine Boudou
which was spicy, cleanly modern yet warmly redolent of the rustic south,
with ripe fruit and structural balance. The Irouleguy Blanc to start
(Basque white made from the Manseng varietals - Petit and Gros, and
also Courbou) was a wine of well resolved tensions - lively but serious,
minerally yet creamy, taut but not lean, with good weight and acidity
also. It saw off Devilled Sprats and Potted Crab admirably.
The exlusively European (French-dominated) list is concise and offers
drinking vintages of classics but not cliches with a further emphasis
on sufficiently individual wines to intrigue any eonophile. A reasonable
selection are served by 250ml carafe, and although no cheaper than two
normal glasses, it makes lunchtime drinking seem more indulgent. A welcome
and affordable addition to Notting Hill's restaurant scene, and with
evening trade deservedly buoyant, as it deserves to, hopefully Hereford
Road, a la Arbutus, will consider offering more of its list by the 1/3
of a bottle. Hereford
Road Restaurant, 3 Hereford Road, W2 - 020 7727 1144
5. GrapeVine:
Louis Roederer looking at vineyard sites in Kent and Sussex...
It might be a while until we see a Cristal from Kent, but Jean-Claud
Rouzaud, President of the prestigious Champagne House, impressed by
the area's chalky soils and land prices seems interested... if only
global warming could guarantee an English climate sunny enough to ripen
grapes to maturity. After the rainfest which passed for this year's
miserable summer, the prospect of homegrown pedigree fizz must only
heighten the desire to stand outside emptying aerosol cans into our
fragile, fragmenting atmosphere.