Bérubé
Julie Bërubë's fourth season at LFW
is an exercise in superior tailoring with striking
details putting a twist on a modest yet feminine
collection. Stand and deliver blouses and cotton
T-shirts come with bib fronts, bows and pleating
that hint at the schoolgirl. Fitting playsuits
and slim trousers in printed denim are a little
rock & roll. And the key piece - a button
up balloon skirt - goes with everything from leather
halter necks to racer-backed tops with sporty
buckles. Staple accessories include tan leather
sandals (designed for Bërubë by shöfolk)
and substantial bags. And to top it off, diaphanous
greige dresses can be worn in a multitude of ways.
An accomplished presentation. |
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Jean-Pierre Braganza
The chaps from Rakehell Revels and most of Tokyo
have turned up to see Central Saint Martins graduate
Jean-Pierre Braganza's Plutonicon show. Bed headed
boys wear layered jersey vests, low-crotched shiny
trousers, wrap around blanket pants and various
plays on the dinner jacket. Pony tailed girls
wear black hybrid tops, stylised dungarees, overall
dresses, shorty shorts and creased bronze belted
coats. What any of these creations have to do
with astronomy and the dark planets is unclear
but who cares when silhouettes are this tasty.
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Kristian Aadnevik
Kristian Aadnevik's S/S 07 is inspired by ‘a
midsummer ‘s night’s dream’
and ‘grand ballrooms’ - or so the
press release goes. A more accurate description
of its origins would be high-class prostitutes
and Amazonian goths. Fiercely black PVC strapped
bondage dresses, ostrich feather tiered gowns
and long fringed mini dresses are belted above
and below the bust. Then he does the same shapes
and concepts in all white. And then again in red.
Every outfit is topped off with unfeasibly vertiginous
platform shoes that many of the models almost
take a tumble in, causing the front row to openly
flinch in fear. Boys also walk the walk in mean
suits, safety pinned trousers and leather corsets.
Be afraid, be very afraid. |
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Avshalom Gur
After an initial mishap (the CD for the catwalk
music was blank), Avsh Alom Gur shows his S/S
07 to a full and impatient house. The Topshop
New Generation designer has looked to the sea
as well as Bedouin tribes for this collection
and the models appear like abandoned maidens on
the stark white catwalk. His signature raw edged
and folded evening dresses in silk chiffon come
with raffia hemlines and cowl necks in shades
of grey and aquamarine. He plays with cable, net
and chain knits to create revealing, figure hungry
swimsuits. And silver bird broaches, natural stones
and hand carved jade all dazzle like unearthed
island treasures. Front rowers Jamie and Louise
Rednap seem suitably impressed. |
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Alice McCall
This Sydney-based designer yearns for her age
of innocence for S/S07. She clearly grew up in
the 70s and re-imagines that time via an array
of lovely little outfits fit for a virgin suicide.
First up some sunshine yellow day dresses full
of girlish charm. Next are high-waisted shorts,
jumpsuits and skirts all in blue or washed denim
with shiny brass buttons. Then T-shirt, babydoll
and square necked dresses are printed with flowers
and embroidered on sleeves. Finally there's a
maxi dress with long billowing sleeves and a kimono-style
wide sleeved dress that looks like a rather stylish
lampshade. What this show lacks in cohesion, it
makes up for in bohemian luster. |
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Esther Franklin
After a two-hour wait, some might say a seven-minute
show is on the brief side but this collection
still managed to make a modern, elegant statement.
Taffeta shirtdresses with high collars are bitter
sweet in dark chocolate. Crossover jersey dresses
and 50s strappy dresses with full skirts accentuate
boobs and waists in olive and bronze. Softly pleated
skirts and sheer tunic tops look sumptuous in
peach and mustard. And city shorts with vests
dare to bare in black. A short but perfectly formed
S/S 07 that proves Esther's time at Versace was
not in vain. |
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Aime McWilliams
If you can pinch an inch, don’t come knocking
on Aimee McWilliam's door. Her predominantly white,
skimpy collection is on the unforgiving side.
Several Addicted To Love-esque mini dresses in
jersey or chiffon have low necklines and skim
bum cheeks. Similar versions in leather are either
zip up or have intricate lazer cut outs. Cigarette
pants and military front jackets are classically
tailored and knickerbockers compliment floaty
blouses and cropped jackets. A touch of grey and
black also nudge in on softly embroidered waistcoats
and structured bodices. The biggest accomplishment
of all though is that she manages to make leather
trousers seem a good idea. Just add a tan. |
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